We met with Sanni Jama, who was awarded Voice of the Year 2024, in recognition of her tireless work exposing a large‑scale greenwashing case in Finland in the summer of 2024. In this interview, we discuss marketing claims and consumer awareness, and a deep dive into understanding the complex topics of sun screen filters.
To start, could you introduce yourself and share a bit about your journey in the beauty industry?
Sanni: I’m Sanni Jama, a content creator specializing in beauty science communication. While some might call it influencing, my focus is on making scientific and technical beauty information easy to understand and useful for everyday consumers. I work closely with researchers and cosmetic chemists to bridge the gap between their world and the public.
I create content for both my platforms and clients, which includes everything from ingredient-based articles to expert-led education. My background is in travel, but beauty has fascinated me since childhood. Around the time when I moved in with my partner and a career shift was current, I found a cosmetics consultancy course that focused on sales and marketing, and it instantly clicked. During my studies, I worked in a cosmetics store and started writing my beauty blog, which eventually grew into my full-time job.
What parts of the beauty industry inspire you the most?
Sanni: Innovation, especially when it comes to ingredients, constantly fuels my curiosity. Since I have worked in the industry for 16 years now, and have been deepening my knowledge with courses in cosmetics formulation, the way new active ingredients are developed fascinates me, and I’m always eager to learn more.
I’m also drawn to the creativity in this space. Seeing how a simple product like a moisturizer can be reimagined through formulation never gets old. Indie brands in particular often bring a personal and fresh perspective that pushes the industry forward.
You have become a go-to voice for science-backed sun care. What’s the biggest challenge consumers face today when choosing SPF?
Sanni: Honestly, people are overwhelmed by the number of options and don’t always understand the differences between sunscreen formulations. The sunscreen market has expanded rapidly, which is great, but many products look the same on paper, and marketing language doesn’t always reflect real formulation differences.
Most of the issues consumers have when trying to find the best option for them come down to ingredients, but without a background in cosmetic science, it’s hard to find the ideal product.
One key issue when it comes to sunscreen is under-application; people don’t use nearly enough product to get the promised protection.
How do you see your role and that of other creators in the SPF conversation?
Sanni: I see my role as helping people understand what they are using. While many creators focus on reminders to wear SPF (which is important!), I try to go deeper, explaining how sunscreens work, what ingredients do, and what the trade-offs are.
Once you understand those basics, you can make informed choices that align with your skin needs, values, and even environmental concerns. That is what I want to offer: tools for smarter, more empowered decisions.
Can you explain the difference between chemical and physical sunscreens, and where you stand on natural vs. modern UV filters?
Sanni: Technically, sunscreens use either inorganic (physical) or organic (chemical) filters. Physical filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are large particles that mostly sit on the skin’s surface. Older chemical filters, made of smaller molecules, could be absorbed into the skin and even the bloodstream.
However, modern chemical filters are particles with larger molecules designed to stay on the skin’s surface. They are often more efficient, gentler on the skin, and more environmentally friendly than older chemical filters.
A common misconception is that physical filters reflect UV rays while chemical ones absorb them. Both types mainly absorb UV rays, while physical filters also reflect about 10%.
Regulations also add confusion. For instance, France recently began requiring “nano” labeling even when products no longer contain nanoparticles. This regulation, concerning products formulated in France, makes it difficult for consumers to know if the nano labeling is referring to the particle being nano-sized as raw material, or if it is still nano-sized in the end product, unless the brand clarifies it.
There’s no perfect sunscreen; the effectiveness depends on the formulation. But modern chemical filters, when well-formulated, are safe, effective, and in light of current studies, comparable in environmental impact to non-nano physical filters. And while physical filters are often marketed as fully reef-safe, nano-sized physical filters can still pose aquatic toxicity risks; again, the dose makes the poison.
What’s your take on consumers’ knowledge about certifications and green claims like ‘vegan,’ ‘natural,’ or ‘cruelty-free’?
Sanni: There’s still a lot of confusion. Many consumers assume that vegan means natural, which isn’t the case; a product can be entirely synthetic and still be vegan.
True understanding of what these claims mean is still limited to a niche audience. Greenwashing is also common, and few consumers know how to spot it. The terms can be meaningful, but only when they are backed by transparency. That is why certifications are meaningful in communicating trust to the consumer, but these are mostly known among natural cosmetics users.
Have you seen rising expectations around transparency in beauty?
Sanni: Absolutely. More people want to know where ingredients come from, how products are made, and who’s behind the brand. The increasing discussions about the environmental crisis make people want to choose sustainable options. It’s no longer just about clean or sustainable products; it’s also about traceability. Consumers are asking smarter questions, and brands need to meet that demand.
The role of certifications is once again emphasized; they serve not only as indicators for consumers but also as valuable tools for sales personnel in supermarkets and department stores, helping them navigate the vast assortment of products and guide consumers toward more sustainable choices.
What trends stood out to you in natural beauty over the past year, and do you see some challenges in the industry?
Sanni: Minimalist routines, fragrance-free natural cosmetics, and skin barrier–supporting products are trending. There’s also rising interest in daily SPF products that double as skincare, and low-waste, plastic-free packaging.
One area that needs urgent rethinking is single-use products, like sheet masks. A reusable sheet that could be bought separately, and works with any essence could be a more sustainable solution.
Packaging innovation is also critical. It’s often more expensive to create sustainable formulas and packaging, and educating consumers on the real cost of cheap products is a challenge. But when brands are transparent and trustworthy, consumers are more willing to choose the eco-friendly option, even at a higher price.
Earlier this year, you questioned how Finland’s Competition and Consumer Authority (KKV) holds influencers to stricter standards than traditional media. What’s the issue?
Sanni: The core issue is inconsistent disclosure rules. Influencers must label gifted products, while journalists often don’t. This creates a false sense of independence in traditional media and undermines transparent creators.
KKV understands this concern, but can’t change the regulation alone; it requires broader collaboration and is already being discussed.
This discussion is not about avoiding rules; it’s about fairness and clarity for consumers, who deserve to know where content is coming from, regardless of the platform.
You were awarded Voice of the Year for your work exposing greenwashing last summer. What happened in that case?
Sanni: After a reader’s request, I investigated a brand whose marketing implied that all of its products were made in Finland. In reality, only one-third of the range was made in Finland. While misleading, the more serious issue was that three of their products were faulty: two sunscreens didn’t offer the UV protection promised, and a third was marketed as natural but used old chemical filters (which are harmful to aquatic life).
The brand refused responsibility and declined dialogue. Still, there was some impact; three products were pulled off the market, and a subcontractor partnership ended. It wasn’t a full resolution, but raising awareness helped consumers ask better questions.
Even though the brand didn’t change, this case showed how some companies operate purely by creating a misleading image. It also exposed weaknesses in EU cosmetic regulation, which relies heavily on trust, not on active checks. I was shocked to learn that a faulty product, a sunscreen with no verified UV protection, could be sold legally because the required tests weren’t done, and no one checked.
In general, larger, long-established companies tend to be more reliable. They operate under regulatory scrutiny, and the reputational and financial risks are too high for them to take shortcuts.
What did it mean to be named Voice of the Year?
Sanni: It was an incredible honour and a big surprise. Speaking up often brings backlash. People question your motives or accuse you of causing conflict.
That’s why the award meant so much. It validated the long hours, the emotional toll, and the purpose behind my work: protecting consumers and pushing for better standards in the industry. It reminded me that using your voice matters, even when it feels exhausting, and the brand in question faced no real consequences, despite selling sunscreens that posed a health risk.
I’m truly grateful, especially because this case drained me; the recognition reignited my sense of purpose again.
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Sanni Jama’s work aligns closely with the ENBA’s values, with her tireless work in focusing on transparency and clarifying complex topics in the beauty industry.
We are proud to feature Sanni Jama as part of the European Natural Beauty Awards community — a voice that embodies the ENBA values of excellence, transparency, and naturality.
To learn more about Sanni Jama: