Official Selection 2026 · Paris

PROHIBITED INGREDIENTS & PROCESSING METHODS

The following categories of ingredients, raw materials, substances, materials, manufacturing methods, processing pathways, and sourcing practices are prohibited in all formulations entering the European Natural Beauty Awards and the European Natural Beauty Market. Each ingredient is evaluated based on these criteria.

This framework is designed to align with the requirements of the leading European certification standards BioVidaSana, COSMOS, and NATRUE. Therefore, products certified by any of these three standards may use fast-track application processes.

Unless otherwise expressly permitted, prohibitions apply to all materially related variants, derivatives, oligomers, polymers, copolymers, reaction products, intermediates, residuals, contaminants, and processing pathways belonging to the same chemical class or functional category.

For the purposes of this standard, “synthetic” refers to substances predominantly derived from petrochemical feedstocks or manufactured through non-permitted chemical transformation pathways inconsistent with recognised green chemistry principles, and renewable sourcing principles and processing methodologies.

Where classification ambiguity exists, interpretation shall be determined according to:

  • feedstock origin,
  • manufacturing pathway,
  • biodegradability profile,
  • environmental persistence,
  • bioaccumulation potential,
  • toxicological profile,
  • wastewater impact,
  • and overall alignment with the principles of green chemistry, renewable sourcing, environmental protection, and human safety.

Where standards, regulatory interpretations, or ingredient classifications diverge, the more environmentally protective interpretation shall prevail.

 

1. Petrochemical and Fossil-Derived Ingredients

Mineral oils, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, polydecenes, isoparaffins, alkyl benzenes, petroleum-derived solvents, petrochemical synthetic esters, petrochemical preservatives, petrochemical fragrances, petrochemical colourants, petrochemical surfactants, petrochemical solvent systems, and fossil-derived rheology modifiers.

2. Silicones and Organosilicon Compounds

Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclomethicone, amodimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, siloxanes, silicone elastomers, silicone gums, silicone resins, silicone emulsifiers, silicone quaterniums, silicone conditioning agents, volatile silicones, water-soluble silicones, and all fossil-derived organosilicon chemistry.

3. Synthetic Polymers, Plastics, and Microplastics

Nylon powders, polyethylene beads, polypropylene particles, PMMA microspheres, acrylates copolymers, carbomers, polyquaterniums, synthetic film-formers, polyurethane particles, vinyl polymers, synthetic gel polymers, polyacrylate thickeners, acrylamide polymers, synthetic coating polymers, plastic glitter, PET glitter, exfoliating plastic particles, microbeads, nanoplastics, non-biodegradable cosmetic microcapsules, persistent insoluble polymer particles, persistent petrochemical polymers, non-biodegradable synthetic polymers, and environmentally persistent surfactants.

4. GMO-Related Ingredients and Biotechnology

GMO plant ingredients, GMO microorganisms, GMO fermentation substrates, GMO enzymes, GMO yeasts, GMO bacteria, GMO algae, GMO-derived oils, starches, sugars, proteins, amino acids, recombinant DNA technology, transgenic crops, transgenic fermentation, GMO-assisted biosynthesis, and genetically engineered microorganisms.

5. Synthetic Fragrances and Perfumery Chemistry

Artificial fragrance compositions, synthetic aroma chemicals, synthetic musk compounds including nitro musks and polycyclic musks, synthetic aldehydes, artificial fruit notes, synthetic perfume fixatives, petrochemical perfume carriers, and nature-identical synthetic fragrance compounds not derived from natural sources in accordance with ISO 9235.

6. Synthetic Colourants and Optical Agents

Coal tar dyes, synthetic FD&C dyes, synthetic azo dyes, artificial pigments, synthetic colour lakes, artificial fluorescent pigments, synthetic optical brighteners, and petroleum-derived colourants.

7. Synthetic Preservatives, Antimicrobials, and Antioxidants

Parabens, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde-releasing agents including DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, and bronopol; triclosan, chlorhexidine, isothiazolinones including methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone, chlorophenesin, and synthetic antioxidants including BHA, BHT, and TBHQ.

8. Phthalates

All phthalate esters including diethyl phthalate (DEP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP), and related compounds used as plasticisers, fragrance fixatives, or solvent carriers.

9. Ethoxylated and Propoxylated Chemistry

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs), PEG derivatives, PEG emulsifiers, PEG castor oils, PEG stearates, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and surfactants including laureth, ceteareth, oleth, and steareth compounds, ethylene oxide adducts, polypropylene glycols (PPGs), propoxylated surfactants, propoxylated emulsifiers, propylene oxide derivatives, and all ethoxylation and propoxylation processing pathways.

10. Halogenated and Chlorinated Compounds

Halogenated solvents, chlorinated paraffins, brominated flame retardants, organohalogens, chlorinated synthetic compounds, halogenated synthesis pathways, chlorinated plastics including PVC, PVDC packaging materials, and brominated plastics.

11. Engineered Nanomaterials and Nano-Delivery Systems

Engineered synthetic nanoparticles, persistent nanoscale polymers, nanostructured synthetic delivery systems, non-biodegradable cosmetic nanocapsules, and nanoplastic particles.

Mineral nano forms including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide may only be permitted where separately assessed in accordance with applicable cosmetic regulations and specifically approved under this standard.

12. Irradiated Ingredients and Ionising Radiation Processing

Gamma-irradiated ingredients, electron beam-sterilised ingredients, ionising radiation-treated materials, gamma irradiation, electron beam irradiation, radiation sterilisation processes, and bleaching of natural substances using chlorine or chlorine-based agents.

13. Prohibited Animal-Derived Materials and Practices

Placenta extracts, foetal animal extracts, starfish extract, ingredients sourced from endangered or CITES Appendix I-listed species, bee venom extracted by electric shock, snail mucus extracted by salt or electrical stimulation, ingredients obtained through harmful live-animal extraction systems, wildlife exploitation, cruel animal handling, and all forms of animal testing.

14. Persistent Environmental Contaminants and Hazardous Substances

Intentionally added persistent organic pollutants (POPs), bioaccumulative synthetic substances, persistent fluorinated compounds including PFAS-related substances, carcinogenic, mutagenic, or reprotoxic (CMR) reagents, ozone-depleting substances, and manufacturing systems generating persistent toxic waste.

Substances classified as non-readily biodegradable under OECD 301 are prohibited unless demonstrably non-persistent, non-bioaccumulative, and environmentally benign based on recognised environmental fate data.

Substances classified as of great concern for wastewater impact under recognised industrial environmental assessment systems, including TEGEWA classification III or equivalent, are prohibited.

15. Quaternary Ammonium Compounds and Synthetic Conditioning Agents

Synthetic cationic conditioning agents, including cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, alkyltrimethylammonium compounds, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and related amphoteric surfactants produced through petrochemical or non-compliant processing pathways, synthetic cationic polymers, polyquaterniums, and petroleum-derived synthetic conditioning agents not compliant with naturally derived origin requirements.

16. Synthetic UV Filters

Including oxybenzone (benzophenone-3), octinoxate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), octocrylene, homosalate, avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), and all synthetic organic UV-filter compounds not of approved mineral origin.

17. Hazardous Extraction Solvents and Synthetic Solvent Systems

Hexane, toluene, benzene, petroleum ether, glycol ethers, chlorinated solvents, extraction processes employing hexane, benzene, toluene, or chlorinated solvent systems, and synthetic solvent systems incompatible with COSMOS-compliant processing methodologies.

18. Synthetic Chelating Agents

EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, disodium EDTA, EDTA-derived compounds, and non-biodegradable synthetic chelators failing recognised biodegradability criteria.

19. Conventional Synthetic Surfactants and Emulsifiers

Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), ethoxylated sulfates, petroleum sulfosuccinates, synthetic alkyl sulfates, petroleum-derived surfactants, and ethoxylated or propoxylated emulsifiers of petrochemical origin.

Sulphated surfactants of compliant natural origin may only be permitted where specifically authorised under transitional provisions consistent with applicable COSMOS requirements.

20. Non-Green Chemical Processing Methods

Conventional petrochemical polymerisation, fossil-based monomer synthesis, harsh petrochemical derivatisation, acrylic polymer synthesis, vinyl polymerisation, persistent polymer crosslinking systems, highly polluting synthesis routes, environmentally hazardous processing, non-biodegradable reaction systems, manufacturing processes involving disproportionate energy consumption relative to commercially available lower-impact alternatives, and production systems generating persistent microplastics as by-products or processing aids.

21. Unsustainable Sourcing and Agricultural Practices

Palm oil and palm derivatives linked to deforestation where RSPO certification at minimum Mass Balance (MB) supply chain level cannot be demonstrated; overharvesting of wild plant species; exploitation of threatened, endangered, or IUCN Red List-listed species; habitat destruction; destructive marine harvesting; primary raw materials harvested or collected through practices involving threatened species; and agricultural sourcing dependent upon synthetic pesticides, synthetic fertilisers, or prohibited agrochemicals where certified organic or compliant alternatives are commercially available.

22. Residual Contaminants and Impurities

Raw materials, intermediates, and finished ingredients shall not contain residual contaminants associated with prohibited processing methods, including but not limited to:

  • ethylene oxide,
  • 1,4-dioxane,
  • residual solvents,
  • PAHs,
  • nitrosamines,
  • halogenated impurities,
  • heavy metals,
  • or other contaminants exceeding technically unavoidable trace levels consistent with recognised cosmetic safety standards.

23. Interpretation, Exceptions, and Governance

Specific exceptions may only be permitted where:

  • explicitly authorised,
  • demonstrably compliant with the principles of this standard,
  • supported by technical documentation,
  • and shown not to conflict with the objectives of environmental protection, biodegradability, renewable sourcing, toxicological safety, and green chemistry.

This prohibited substances framework shall be reviewed upon publication of applicable cosmetic regulations, environmental criteria, or upon emergence of new scientific evidence relating to human health, toxicology, biodegradability, bioaccumulation, environmental persistence, or ecological impact.

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